A living and breathing chunk of the 1930’s, the Cite Bourgogne (meaning Burgundy City in French) was built at that time to house middle class families. The French businessmen who had it developed had a target of accommodating around 80 families in typical Shikumen houses. The area now has almost 450 families calling it home but, thanks to Government intervention, has retained its original look and feel throughout the ages.
Cite Bourgogne has now been renamed to Bugaoli Lane, which means rising higher, step by step, indicating its precious value as an antique. The area is situated in the nook created at the crossing of Shaanxi South street and Jianguo West street in the Huangpu district. Bugaoli lane can be accessed by disembarking at Jiashan Road station via either line 2 or line 5 of the Shanghai subway. There is a few minutes’ walk till visitors approach the descriptive gate of the Cite Bourgogne. Entrance is without a charge because the area is actually inhabited by residents. Because of this, tourists are advised to be respectful and non-disruptive to the residents carrying out their daily lives, when taking a walk through the old town. It takes an hour or two at maximum to take in this wonderous lane.
Spread over an area of 10,000 sq meters and gated on two ends with ‘Heritage Architecture’ mentioned under ‘Cite Bourgogne’ on plaques mounted on the entrances to indicate its treasured status, Bugaoli is the embodiment of lane life. This was also one of the original intents behind the construction of the small units. Residents have a kitchen and bed inside but reading the newspaper, taking a cat nap, exercising, etc. is done outside of the small houses so that neighbors got to socialize more and the lane encouraged a more community feel. Residents got to know and care for each other as they bonded in the close quarters. This vibe certainly looks most attractive to the newer generation used to being isolated in apartment life in the busy metropolis. However, most inhabitants of Cite Bourgogne are old souls who did not have the heart or the resources to move away from their life long homes.
As part of the French Concessions area of the city, it has historically housed many notable people including Ba Jin, the writer who lived at No.52 Bugaoli. Within these lanes he created famous works like his ‘Dream of the Sea’. Its proximity to central Shanghai makes it a well-visited attraction. Compared to the plastic feel of the very commercialized Xintiandi, Cite Bourgogne feels more real with residents milling about with their routine business unconcerned with tourists. A quite observer can catch glimpses in to what lane life looks like for modern Shanghainese and appreciate the contrast to the 21st century apartment complex lifestyles.
Since it is less commercialized, there are not many shopping or eating opportunities in the area. There will still be small vendors and hole-in-the-wall eateries along the way but try at your own risk!